Leopold Bros Maryland-Style Rye Whiskey Review

Leopold Bros – Maryland-Style Rye Whiskey

Single Barrel – Barrel #110

Distilled in Denver, Colorado

86 Proof

$50

While balance is key in life, and key in most great whiskeys, sometimes the palate demands a bold flavor choice. Plus, there’s something beautifully Zen in weighing one’s predilection for nuanced and balanced whiskeys against hyper-specific flavor-forward spirits. After all, one cannot define balance without knowing or appreciating the lopsided.

If Wild Turkey Kentucky Spirit is among the finest balanced expressions of a smooth yet bold bourbon, the other side of the whiskey continuum might be Leopold Bros. Maryland-Style Rye.

Now, you might be thinking, “…waitaminute Maryland-style ryes are NOT the ultimate expression of ryes – they don’t even use 100% rye mashbill, you ninny!”

You’d be right, of course. Not about being a “ninny,” but indeed, Maryland-style ryes are produced with a limited rye mashbill, with corn in the mix to subdue the spiciness of the rye, increase the sweetness of the whiskey, and deliver a more nuanced or rounder flavor.

Also, I would never argue Leopold Bros. Maryland-Style Rye is the ultimate expression of Rye, but I do think this deliciously specific spirit is gorgeously imbalanced and decidedly bold. If Kentucky Spirit is a symphonic 80 piece orchestra, Leopold Bros. Maryland-Style Rye is a virtuoso cello showstopper. Audacious, loud, specific, and deeply enjoyable.

It’s worth noting, that the note Leopold Bros. Maryland-Style Rye hits (and hits hard) is the rye itself, which could be considered ironic as it isn’t a 100% rye mash. Why is that? Why would a 65% rye mashbill produce a more “rye-forward flavor” than its 100% counterpart? Imagine listening to your favorite rock song, turned up to 11 with your ear against the speaker at a concert. Maybe you recognize the song, you can definitely tell that it’s rock, maybe even perceive specific notes though the sonic distortion. You dig it, sure, and sometimes it’s just what the doctor ordered. Sometimes you just want to rock out. Unfortunately, the loudness mitigates the music itself. Sometimes you need a limiter to allow the notes to come through. That’s where the corn in Maryland-style ryes comes in.

100% rye whiskeys tend to be overtly bold and spicy (delicious too), but the they’re so bold the actual flavor of the grain ends up hidden in the spirit. It is with great irony that the corn in the mash softens the entire whiskey, allowing the grain-fennel-caraway notes endemic in the rye itself to sing.

The nose on Leopold Bros. Maryland-Style Rye is specifically rye (grain, fennel, caraway, anise, pepper, and light oak). The palate follows suit, with an incredibly silky mouthfeel. The rye spiciness and fennel-forward notes at the attack pair with subtly sweet back notes of vanilla, orange, banana, and oak. To me, there is a distinct fresh deli rye-bread quality, that takes me back to my childhood with every pour. The finish is smooth and will absolutely leave glorious lingering notes of grain and vanilla, demanding another dram!

In the end, if you’re looking for something fresh and different, and if you like ryes but feel they’re not “rye” enough for you, you would be hard pressed to find a better expression of complex but specific flavors only a Maryland-style rye can provide.

The Whiskey to Life Rating:

4.5 Drams